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The carnival tradition originates from ancient pagan rites and acquired a whole different meaning in Christian times, when it was associated with a spell of marriment preceedings the restrictions and fasting of Lent. Carnival starts after the Epiphany on January 6th, but since Martedì Grasso (Shrove Tuesday) is the day before Ash Wednesday which is forty days before Easter, and because Easter depends on when the first full moon in spring is, as a consequence carnival varies in length and dates each year. However, as a rule off thumb the celebrations usually start four Sundays before the Martedì Grasso, and the last couple of weeks are the "hottest".You can hire elaborate costumes and a number of shops and you can dress up as almost anything you fancy (from Batman to a lamp-post, from a Renaissance lady to your favorite Star Wars character), or invent your own costume, or even just put on some fancy makeup. However, you should be careful to reserve your outfit well in advance if you need it for one of the most popular days.

Berlingaccio (the last carnival Thursday), the last carnival Sunday and Martedì Grasso. On these days many discos, bars and restaurants will hold carnival parties, and weather permitting there will also be street parties held.

All the main towns in Italy have their local traditional masks. Here are just a few of the names you may want to get acquainted with: Pulcinella is from Naples, Arlecchino and Colombina are a couple of lovers from Venice, Dottor Balanzone is from Bologna, Rugantino is from Rome, Gianduia is from Turin. In Tuscany, Florence has Stenterello, while Viareggio created its own mask in 1930. It is called Burlamacco and it was later joined by a female companion, Ondina.

In Florence children dress up and parade with their parents in the squares, at the Cascine park and along the Lungarno Vespucci, scattering colourful confetti and wielding cans of squirty shaving foam. A colourful multiethnic carnival parade will be held between piazza Ognissanti and piazza Signoria. Foreign communities and groups are invited to join in.

The most famous and unusual carnival in Tuscany is held in Viareggio, an elegant seaside resort about 100 km west of Florence, where for over 130 years there have been spectacular parades of elaborate floats. It all started in 1873, when a group of local young aristocrats decided to celebrate their Martedì Grasso in style. They wore masks and costumes, adorned their carriages with flowers and paraded through the town. The idea immediately caught on and except during the World Wars, the Viareggio carnival has never missed a year.

Later the first allegorical floats entered the scene, built by the skilful hands of the blacksmiths and carpenters from the shipyards of the town. In 1925 papier maché was employed for the first time, allowing builders to construct increasingly large creations. The floats of today are divided into two size groups. The largest take the best part of the year to complete and can accommodate up to 200 people, a dozen of whom will be manoeuvring the massive puppets from the inside. Since the late Sixties satire has become a favourite.subject, and the carnival artists mercilessly lampoon politics, sports and entertainment celebrities, as well as the hottest topics and events. "Victims" last year included Silvio Berlusconi, George W Bush and even the Pope.

The whole thing is way over the top that you will never believe it until you see it with your own eyes, so head for Viareggio and enjoy a grand carnival experience. Viareggio can be reached by train via Pisa or with a Lazzi bus from Piazza Adua. Due to the huge amount of work involved in the preparation of the floats, admission to the carnival avenue is not free.Tickets for both standing or seating places can be bought from booths once you are there or reserved by telephone in advance.

Many other Tuscan towns have carnival celebrations, most of which feature parades of elaborate floats, fancy dress parties and much eating and drinking. At Foiano della Chiana in the province of Arezzo there is another very old carnival. On the day of the last parade, the local King Carnival - called Giocondo (Merry King) - will read out loud his "will" to the crowds, and after this the giant puppet will be burnt in a rite that has its roots in some very old peasant traditions. A fine Venice-like carnival festival was launched in style last year in Lucca, and will be repeated again this year with three weeks of outstanding events: parties in luxurious palazzi and 18th-century villas, shows, concerts, themed dinners and all sorts of entertainment.