EASTER IN FLORENCE
There are several traditions and events in Florence, during the Easter holidays.
The main important event is "the scoppio del carro" (=the explosion of the Cart).
This is one of the oldest traditions in the culture of Florence.
as the ceremony goes back to the First Crusade.
In 1097, under the command of Goffredo di Buglione, the crusaders departed for Palestine and in the summer of 1099 laid siege to and sacked Jerusalem. According to tradition, it was the Florentine Pazzino de/’ Pazzi who scaled the walls of the Holy City first. For this act of courage, Goffredo di Buglione gave him three shards of the Holy Sepulcher when he returned to Florence. He later donated them to the city in a grand celebration, and they are now preserved in the church of the Holy Apostles.
Historians tell us that after the liberation of Jerusalem, on the day of Holy Saturday, the crusaders gathered in the Church of the Resurrection and gave everyone present holy fire, the symbol of purification. This ceremony was the origin of the Easter tradition of giving out holy fire to the people of Florence. With the passing of time the planning of the festival became increasingly articulated, to the point that the use of a cart to transport the holy fire was introduced, with a tripod full of burning coal.
Today the cart of Easter fire, pulled by oxen and escorted by 150 soldiers, musicians, and flag-bearers of historic soccer, starts from Piazzale del Prato and arrives in Piazza del Duomo. At this point a metal wire unites the cart to the top of a wood column placed in the center of the choir. In the meantime, a procession begins from the church of the Holy Apostles led by the Gonfalone of Florence and flag-bearers of the Pazzi family, with priests and city officials. At 11.00, to the sounds of “Gloria in excelsis Deo,” the fuse of a rocket is lit and it flies, whistling, to set aligtht the fireworks in the cart. According to tradition, if the flight of the rocket is perfect, it will be a positive year for Florence.
24 June:–Calcio in Costume – Florence
Historical Costumed Football match - Florence
This yearly event, in Florence is held in June and has been going on for over 600 years. Today the historical costumed football match represents a great tourist attraction, whereas for the city of Florence and all its local neighbourhoods , "rioni", it is a reminiscing journey into the past.
It takes place during the festivities of the Hoy Patron of the Tuscan capital: San Giovanni Battista, which is on the 24th of June. During this occasion the four citys rioni (neighbourhoods) face each other on the game terrain, in three relentless games, lasting 50 minutes each
The city with the respective supporters divides into four rioni (although earlier in history they were subdivided in districts) which have taken their name from the main church inside that constituency.
The rioni are recognised by the people of Florence with the colour of their gonfalon:
Santo Spirito Rione "White"; Santa Croce Rione "Blue"; San Giovanni Rione "Green" and Santa Maria Novella Rione "Red".
Normally three games are played: two direct qualifying ones and the final. But the show is not limited to the sole game, there is also a historical parade, with over five hundred costumed walk- ons, it is an inspiring moment of historical Football.
A colour display explodes when the "Bandierai degli Uffizi" come into the square to spin the posters of the main "magistrature e degli uffici" that existed in the Florence Republic in the 17th century. At the end the Capitano di Guardia performs the collective greeting of the figures and introduces the prize for the victorious rione: the white heifer. This is now just a figure but it was once roasted during the celebrations of the winning rione.
The beginning of the game is marked by the explosion of a number of shots from the "colubrina", and at this point the fifty-four footballers come onto the field, twenty-seven for each part. For fifty minutes there are passes, aerial catches and huddles which liven up a game which is very felt by the rionali and by the players themselves.
The objective of the footballers is to score a /"caccia/": scoring in the opponents goal marked by a shot from the colubrina which sanctions the point. When time is up the rione that ends up with a greater number of cacce receives symbolically the white heifer which is taken by the whole footballers team.
24 June : Festivity of San Giovanni - Florence
This Florence festivity is the most important feast day, although celebrations start several days before, they culminate on June 24th. Many of the shops in Florence will be closed on the day itself to enable everyone to enjoy the festivities.
St.John the Baptist has been the Florence/’s Patron Saint since the time of the Lombard ruler Theodolinda. After their conversion to Christianity, the Florentines probably chose this particular saint for two reasons. Firstly because the previous protector of the city was the warlike God, Mars (his statue stood by the Ponte Vecchio until 1333, when it was swept away by the Arno in flood), and courageous St. John must have seemed a worthy substitute. Secondly because his teachings were short, simple and precise. After having “imported” St. John, the Lombards also founded or refounded the Baptistery (6th-7th century), “beautiful San Giovanni” (as Dante called it), which, according to legend, was originally a temple to Mars.
Upright and inflexible, St. John was thus the ideal protector for a community whose wealth was based on commerce and to whom reputation was like ready money (proof of this came with the invention of the cheque and bill of exchange). The Saint/’s effigy was therefore engraved on one side of the gold florin (with the Florence flower, the lily, on the reverse), minted from 1252 onwards. The patron saint of the city was thus used to guarantee the content of the coin of gold, giving rise to the saying: “St. John will have no cheating”.
Huge bonfires were traditionally lit throughout Italy on the evening of the Feast of St. John. In Florence, terracotta pots filled with fat were placed on the rooftops of the churches and when lit their flames could be seen from afar. Farmers prepared proprietary fires in the fields as a protection against the evil eye.
The day opens with the solemn procession of the Cathedral clergy, who come out of the main door of the Cathedral to enter the 6th-7th century Baptistery, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, through the Door of Paradise, thus linking the two buildings within a symbolically sacred space.
The traditional offering of a candle for the feast of St. John has survived to this day with a procession in period costume that moves from Palazzo Vecchio to the Baptistery on the morning of June 24th. Accompanied by the Florence/’s city banners, it is composed of the authorities and various prominent personalities. During the service held in honour of St. John, the Archbishop accepts the votive candle from the authorities. This is followed by another Mass in the Cathedral. Other important events taken place in Florence at this time include: the rowing regattas along the Arno during the week of the festivities and the San Giovanni Nocturnal Race, an International marathon through the city (departure and arrival from Piazza San Giovanni) on Saturday June 17th at 9pm.
Preceded by a solemn procession, the final match of the traditional Florentine football in period costume in Piazza Santa Croce is also held on June 24th. The game can be compared to rugby or American football because of its rules that appear to be practically non-existent. Anything goes from kicking to punching and blows below the belt as long as the players can score a “caccia”, or goal. The atmosphere is explosive yet unforgettable.
The traditional fireworks over the Arno date from the 17th century and replace the festive fires that were lit for the summer solstice and later became a feature of St. John/’s Day. Originally set off in Piazza della Signoria, they have since been transferred to Piazzale Michelangelo. The magnificent firework display is always very popular among the locals of Florence, who crowd the bridges and the banks of the Arno on the evening of June 24th to enjoy what they consider their own special event.
First week of September: Festivity of Rificolona and the Perdono - Florence
“Ona, ona, ona,
What a beautiful Rificolona,
Mine with bows is tied,
In yours do lice reside!”
This is a song that the children in Florence sing as they wander through the streets of Florence during the first week of September. They each carry papier-mâché lanterns tied to the ends of sticks, called rificolone. There are several theories as to where the tradition originates from, some think it commemorates the triumphant entry of the Florence troops into Siena on August 2 1555, when the soldiers tied lanterns onto the ends of their pikes.
More probably the Festa della Rificolona grew out of the great autumn market held on September 7, the day before the Nativity of the Virgin, in Piazza Santissima Annunziata. It was probably the most important market-day of the year for the farmers as it was their last chance to earn money in preparation for the coming winter: In order to arrive early the inhabitants of the outlying regions would set off long before dawn and carry lanterns, made by suspending candles within tissue-paper wind-shades, to light their way. Entire families in Florence would come, dressed in their Sunday best, but they were ignorant country folk and their attempts at elegance only made the city people laugh in fact the people of Florence still call an overdressed, over made-up woman a rificolona. Children would blow whistles at them, and make their own lanterns with coloured tissue paper to follow along, or shoot at the lanterns of the farmers with blowguns, in an attempt to knock over the candles and set the tissue paper ablaze.
The Florence market still exists today in the form of a huge fair in Piazza Santissima Annunziata on the 6th and 7th September; it was the first fair held by organic producers in Italy, and remains one of the most important, with wonderful foods and performers of all kinds. The children of Florence still get out their lanterns in the beginning of September and there are parties in the squares, with street theater and music. The Festa della Rificolona closes with a procession on the night of the 7th, from Piazza Santa Croce to Piazza Santissima Annunziata, which is led by the Cardinal; he addresses the crowd, then there is a final party in the streets until the early hours of the morning.
EPIPHANY IN FLORENCE
January 6th, also known as Epiphany, is a celebrated holiday in not only Florence but the whole of Italy. Many shops and restaurants are closed for the celebration in the smaller towns, but many things remain open in Florence, especially on Ponte Vecchio and around the down town area.
For the holiday, a parade is organized by the city of Florence and its surrounding regions. Each region is represented by its regional colours and regional flag bearing its coat of arms. All of the parade participants are dressed in Renaissance style costumes. The participants range from kings to jesters with everything in between (laidies in waiting, drummers, flag bearers, etc.), and horses and oxen were also featured in the parade. It is colourfuland fun spirited. At the end of the parade all of the flag bearers meet in one of palazzos of Florence (Palazzo della Signoria) at the end of the parade route and participate in a flag throwing. The talent the parade participants have is amazing,as not only do they have to in order to throw and catch the flags they must stay synchronized together.
10 August: feast of St. Lawrance - Florence
August 10th is the Feast of St. Lawrence, the Patron Saint of the Quarter of San Lorenzo. The date is celebrated in Florence and throughout Italy as the night of shooting stars and often combined with wine tastings, especially in winegrowing areas.
All tourists and students who come to Florence will find themselves in the area of San Lorenzo. Some go there to visit the magnificent Medici Chapels with the sublime sculptures by Michelangelo, the Laurentian Library and the beautiful Basilica, one of Brunelleschi/’s great legacies to the world. Others instead prefer to browse around the market with its various stalls selling leather, dress wear, bags, silks and other typical products of Florence.
The more adventurous discover the Central Market inside the massive Victorian-style metal structure which can sometimes be unnoticed by the many passing by. The locals in Florence like to do their routine shopping here as they can buy there day to day purchases of meat, fish, and cheeses. Free wine tastings can sometimes be found to attract passers-by.
It is a popular quarter in Florence, once dominated by the fact that the Medici family lived here (the “back door” Palazzo Medici Riccardi gives onto the square) and considered the Basilica their own family church.
Don/’t just visit San Lorenzo for your sightseeing and shopping in the daytime but come back again in the evenings, especially for the St. Lawrence festivities, and enjoy a Bohemian, colourful and culturally interesting atmosphere that is enjoyable for tourists and the locals of Florence.
The festivities open with the colourful Procession of the Florentine Republic, when the city authorities, accompanied by colourful flag bearers and pageantry, offer celebrative candles in the Basilica. Initiatives include guided visits and special openings of the Medici Chapels. In the evening the whole neighbourhood participates in the traditional Florence distribution of lasagna and water melon in the square, reminiscent of the ancient celebrations of the Guild of Bakers, whose feast day this once was.
8 October:St. Reparata Virgin and Martyr - Florence
The feast dedicated to the virgin and martyr St. Reparata, patron saint of the people of Florence is celebrated on yearly on the 8th October.
In the year 406, the city of Florence found itself besieged for the very first time in 500 years of history. After passing the Alps, the barbarian Ostragoth hordes, commanded by King Radagaisus, arrived at the walls of Florence on their way south from the forests of the north. They set siege to the city in the hopes of starving it into surrender, after which they could sack it, cross the Arno and slowly wend their way down to Rome.
The besieged population, fortified by the words of their bishop Zenobius, managed to resist until the arrival of the Roman armies. When Radagaisus heard that Roman troops had attacked his men on the plain of Florence, he decided to move his army down from the hills near Fiesole, where it was encamped, and descend to the plain in their aid. On his way down the Mugnone Valley, he was overpowered and killed near “mons regis”, the Montereggi of today. This easy victory over the Ostrogoth King took place on August 23rd 406, but the city decided to celebrate its liberation on October 8th, the day dedicated to the commemoration of the martyrdom of St. Reparata.
Last Saturday of September:A monster cart of flasks of wine - Florence
On the last Saturday of September every year the Guild of Winemakers brings the new wine to Florence for benediction, after which the consecrated wine is offered to the city authorities.
This ceremony of honouring and blessing the wine dates from the period of the Republic in the 13th century when the consuls of the Guild officially presented the consecrated wine for the table of the Priors of the City Council in Palazzo della Signoria. A symbolic festival that is still revived every autumn in Florence when the wine becomes a way of recalling the city/’s many ancient links with the surrounding countryside.
The event starts out from Piazza del Duomo with a procession that parades through the street of the city. It is composed of heralds, flag wavers, trumpeters, knights and ladies in costume and passes in front of the House of Dante before returning to Piazza Duomo where historical pageants and flag waving performances are held at 4.30pm.
The carro matto (mad cart), containing 1300 flasks stacked like a pyramid and drawn by a pair of oxen await the procession in the square. It is a real masterpiece of packaging that can only be carried out by expert hands. The flasks, pear-shaped with long necks, contain a litre and three quarters of wine. The outer straw covering was carried out to protect the flasks on their long journey from Rufina, as well as to keep them at the same temperature, and not just for decoration. In the past all the wine was delivered at the various taverns and trattorias were carried into Florence in this way.
After a salute from Cardinal in the Cathedral, the historic procession of the Republic of Florence and the Borough of Rufina arrives at around 5.30 pm at the Church of San Carlo dei Lombardi in Via dei Calzaiuoli, for the ceremony of the Benediction of wine. The consecrated wine is then taken to Palazzo Vecchio in Piazza della Signoria and offered to the Mayor or one of his delegates. The festivities then continue in the square with flag wavers and personalities in costume.
JUNE: Palio dei Navicelli - Florence
The Palio dei Navicelli is a renewal of an old tradition in Florence that gives value to an important part of local history, the sand dradgers, or “Renaioli”, who worked the Arno river and supplied the city with one of its primary construction materials. These workers used special boats for their tasks, and during the celebration, historical models of these boats will be on display.
18 February: Commemoration of Anna Maria Luisa De’ Medici, one of Florence/’s greatest patrons
How did Florence come by all its wonderful museum treasures?
They were in donated by someone the city will always remember - and quite rightly - Anna Maria Luisa. Born in Florence on August 11th 1667, Anna Maria Luisa was the only daughter in the family, of Cosimo III de/’ Medici and Margherita d/’Orléans preceded by an elder brother, Ferdinando and followed by Gian Gastone. Anna- Maria Luisa was a courageous but little known personality, whose fame is linked to her wonderful gift to her city of the entire artistic heritage belonging to the Medici family (practically everything that we can now find in the Uffizi and Academy Galleries, the Pitti Palace and other state museums),
Her arranged marriage to William, the Elector Palatine (1658-1716) was held in Innsbruck in 1691. In spite of a series of miscarriages, the princess never managed to produce an heir to throne. She lived in Germany until the death of her husband in 1716 when she returned to Florence. Cosimo III died in 1723, followed by Gian Gastone in 1737. As Ferdinando had died several years before his father, Anna Maria, the last of the Medicis, thus inherited the title of Grand Duchess. She was very conscious of the fact that, on her death, Tuscany would pass under the rule of Duke Francesco, husband of Maria Teresa of Austria and member of the Lorraine family.
When the Electress died on February 18th 1743 at the age of seventy-five, she was mourned by the entire city of Florence. She was the last of the Medici to be buried in the New Sacristy at San Lorenzo. In her will she left all the Medici property - palaces, villas, paintings, statues, jewellery, furniture, books and manuscripts - in other words all the art works assembled by her ancestors, to the new Grand Duke and his successors. However she had a condition: Nothing could ever be taken away from Florence, where the Medici treasures were to remain “as an ornament of the State/”, for the use of the Public and to arouse the curiosity of foreigners”.
Florence commemorated the Electress with a statue in marble by Raffaello Salimbeni (1954-70) that can be found in Canto de/’ Nelli. She is remembered every year on February 18th with various official celebrations and a procession that moves from Piazza della Signoria to the Chapel of the Princess.
Grassina (municipality of Bagno a Ripoli) - Florence
Every Easter on the evening of Good Friday, the Passion of Christ is re-enacted on the hills around Grassina (municipality of Bagno a Ripoli). This event, is known as the Rievocazione Storica, and has ancient origins dating as far back as the early 1600s. The tradition was revived after the Second World War, becoming a regular occurrence and attracting large numbers of spectators each year. Approximately 600 people take part in the re-enactment, staging the final hours of Christ’s life in a number of different tableaux. A large procession of characters in costume winds its way through the streets, while the dramatic scene of the Crucifixion is performed on a hill just outside the village. Complete with lighting and sound effects, it is a deeply absorbing event.
Palazzuolo sul Senio - Florence
Every year, in Florence on two weekends in the middle of July, the streets and main piazza of Palazzuolo sul Senio are brought to life by an event known as Medioevo alla corte degli Ubaldini. This special event re-evokes the world, music and pastimes of the medieval period, when this area was controlled by the Ubaldini family. Various historical bodies provide visitors with a glimpse of the ancient arts of falconry, archery and jousting, but also traditional local crafts, running a market that takes you back in time. There is also a Palio between the thirteen popoli, corresponding to the thirteen ancient /‘clans/’ of the area.
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