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FORIO

The largest town on Ischia, with around 20,000 residents, Forio has some of the island's best restaurants and most of its worst traffic jams. In times past, its problems were more severe, of course. The exposed position of this town left it prey to attacks by Saracen pirates. So, 12 watchtowers were built along the coast. One of them, Il Torrione, dates back to 1480 and dominates the town centre. It's open occasionally for small exhibitions. There are 17 churches in and around Forio, most of which were heavily reworked during the 18th century, and none of which contains outstanding artworks or observes regular opening hours. Standing apart from the town on its headland (where Forio's youth congregates in the evening), the stark, white Santuario della Madonna del Soccorso would not look out of place in Spain; there are pretty majolica Stations of the Cross around the steps outside the church. In Corso Umberto, a church has stood where the Santa Maria di Loreto is now since the XIV century; in piazza del Municipio (which has a great sea view) much of the convento di San Francesco is now occupied by council offices but the church can be visited. In the Santa Maria della Grazie nearby, alms were dispensed in the XVII century; in the piazza of the same name, San Vito is Forio's parish church. Just north of Forio, along the road lo Lacco Ameno, a sign points left lo La Mortella, an award-winning garden that was carved out of a volcanic stone quarry. Designed by renowned British landscapist Russell Page, the garden was completed by Susana Walton - widow of the composer Sir William Walton - and here New Zealand tree ferns unfurl with a prehistoric languor, alongside heavily scented Amazon water lilies. Having arrived on the island at the end of the 1940s in search of sun, quiet and inspiration, Walton arid his young Argentinean wife set about turning a wild plot of land described by their friend Laurence Olivier as 'nothing but a quarry' into one of southern Italy's most luxurious gardens. The William Walton Trust, which runs the garden, also provides accommodation and coaching for young musicians, and organises weekend classical music concerts (included in the price of admission) from April to June, and September and October.

It is advisable to check also the availability of the apartments in Sorrento and the apartments in Positano.

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For 2 servings:

• 6 slices white bread, crusts removed
• 1 fist-sized ball mozzarella, cut into approximately 1/4-inch slices, then strips
• 1/2 cup whole milk
• 3 heaping tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 1 egg
• Salt and pepper
• Olive oil (not extra-virgin) for frying

Make sandwiches out of the bread and mozzarella, leaving a little margin around the edges unfilled with cheese, and press the edges together with your fingers to help seal. (One of the advantages of soft white bread is that it is easily smushed together.) Pour the milk into one soup bowl, the fl ... continue